A post on one of our favourite delicacies, and some food for thought. Feel free to join in the debate!
There are few things in the world I love more than wurst. Usually I blame it on being of Austrian descent; I was brought up eating frankfurters and weiβwurst, and now the thought of a mustard-covered, slightly charred German sausage is enough to make me hungry pretty much anytime.
From knackwurst to kasewurst, I love them all. But when it comes to my favourite, it must be currywurst. Ever since I took the first bite at the age of 15, I’ve been hooked. The first thing I do when I travel to Germany is hunt down a currywurst stall and order an extra-spicy version. I love the tangy-sweet sauce, the whirring noise of the wurst-slicing machine, and how it’s never spicy enough. Come rain or shine, when I start picking at sauce-covered slices on a paper tray with the usual tiny fork, that’s when I feel I’m finally in Germany.
if you’re not familiar with it, currywurst is a popular street snack in Germany, made of sliced sausage covered in a tomato-based sauce topped with curry powder. The origins of the dish date back to 1949, when a Berlin stallholder named Herta Heuwer obtained a ration pack containing curry powder, worcestershire sauce and tomato ketchup from American troops. She combined the ingredients and put them on sliced wurst, and the invention became a nationwide success. However, Hamburg’s currywurst lovers have their own version of the story, claiming that the delicacy was invented by a local woman named Lena Brücker in 1947. Who knows?
In any case, currywurst is street food. It was born as street food and it remained such. You may have noticed that recently street food has become really fashionable, street trucks are all the rage in London and in the US, and ‘street food restaurants’ are opening all over the place. Even here in Milan.
Currywurst is undergoing the same fate. It still is street food, and it’s highly unlikely that it will ever disappear from the streets, but recently it’s starting to be served in ‘currywurst restaurants’ and in swanky joints, such as the Ritz-Carlton in Moscow.
On my recent visit to Hamburg, I decided to try two different types of currywurst; one from the street, and one from a restaurant. Guess what happened?
Currywurst #1 – Express Buffet, street stall by the Rathaus
On our first day in Hamburg, it was freezing and miserable. Mist hung over the Elbe, shrouding the container cranes on the far side. Many riverside stalls were closed; we decided to head to the Rathaus, the impressive town hall, to hunt down a currywurst stall. We ran for cover under the market arcade in the Rathaus square and found exactly what I was looking for. The stall proudly served ‘Kult Currywurst’ since 1954. Two portions of currywurst, two of chips and two half litre beers for about 15€.
We grabbed the usual paper trays and tiny forks and started munching away. That’s the currywurst I like. The sauce was dark brown, sweet and sour, sprinkled with curry powder. I asked for extra spicy, but it wasn’t really. With a half-litre of Astra and chips drowned in mayonnaise, I was full and happy.
Currywurst #2 – Edelcurry, Hamburg’s top currywurst restaurant
The following day we headed to Edelcurry, a recently-opened currywurst restaurant that has won praise with Hamburg locals and press. It was described as the ‘posh’ currywurst experience. We sat down and headed to the counter to order, but wait a second, a waitress? Table service, with plates and proper forks? Wow.
We got two different versions, classic and extra spicy. The sausage was not sliced, covered by a deep red tomatoey sauce. The wurst was perhaps better quality, but you don’t actually eat currywurst for the sausage. At least, I don’t. The secret is in the sauce. This version was definitely tasty, but the flavour was kind of watered down. It lacked the punch of the street version; I could barely taste the extra spice. The chips were a much smaller portion and not as greasy. It cost about 22€, but wasn’t half as filling.
The verdict: #1 wins.
I revealed my opinion in the title. Street food should stay on the streets. Something is lost when it’s eaten in restaurants. Strong flavours are tamed for the palate of discerning diners; it may be somebody else’s cup of tea, but not mine.
I love street food for what it is: cheap, honest, no-nonsense stuff. Ingredients may be factory-made, quality not the greatest sometimes. But it’s all part of the experience.
Are you interested in street food? Check our Penang in Ten Hawker Dishes post, or this post about world food in Berlin if you’re heading to the German capital!
I love currywurst! It’s what I miss most about Germany.
Thanks for your comment Karlie! It’s soo delicious, isn’t it!
Love this as well. We ate it a lot back in New Zealand. It was not a street food though I am sure it is better when eaten from a street vendor…most food is!
Hey Tim! Totally agree with you on that one!
I didn’t even know that currywurst was a thing, and now I absolutely must have some immediately.
I did love the experience of going to fish n’ chip stands in England (fries with curry, best idea ever). I had a similar experience — it was always better bought on the street!
I live in Houston and the food truck culture has absolutely exploded recently. There’s awesome concept trucks (like the Monster PB&J that makes about 100 different versions of the classic sandwich) and some interesting fusions (Mexican Vietnamese, anyone?). It’s always a delicious experience!
Hey Jessi! I totally agree with you on that one, street is always better. I would love to come to Houston and do a ‘food truck tour’, Mexican Vietnamese sounds…. interesting!
I love to try street food, my fave are empanadas in Chile and Argentina. Street food should indeed stay on the street, it’s not meant to be eaten in a fancy restaurant. I couldn’t imagine even ordering a kroket in a restaurant, it would not taste half as good for sure. Making one is not very difficult but doesn’t need to be over-done by a chef. Just plop it into the fat, let it boil for a few moments and it’s ready… Currywursts are good too, though, we don’t get enough of them, living close to Germany…
Hey Antonette! You’re so right, when things are overdone by a chef they just lose their appeal. I have recently discovered that the Netherlands have some very interesting street food, maybe I should come and try some specialties!
I’ve never had currywurst but I’m not surprised that it tastes better from a street truck. I’m sure you get a much more authentic version of the food from the street vendor than you would at the Ritz Carleton!
Thanks for your comment Lisa! totally agree with you. Ritz Carlton should stick to escargots and whatever!
Not sure if I would like Currywurst or not! I love curry, and I love sausage, but I am not great with really spicy foods – I usually have mild curry’s, and good old Lincolnshire or Richmond Sausages (English makes). Would be interesting to try!
I agree with you about street food staying on the street – For me a great example of this is fish & chips in England – They just never taste as good from a restaurant, than the ones from a stall – I think that the surroundings help make street food special too, eating chips at the Seaside, maybe walking along the seafront, and smelling the sea air is brilliant. Thanks for sharing!
Hey Paul! Currywurst is not actually that spicy, just a very mild curry flavour. I always ask for spicy and it never is, so I’m sure you’ll be alright. Totally agree with you on fish and chips – it’s wonderful from a stall by the seaside!
I have never tried it but it sounds like it should be purchased from the back of a truck. And I do agree with the fact that some things are just meant to be street food (or in Taiwan, night market food). I have been living in Taiwan for some time now and there are some things that taste better when purchased at a night market. And the trick to know which vendors have the best food is to watch out for the lines – if the locals are willing to line up for it, then it must taste great!
Thanks for your comment Constance! totally agree with you on what you said about queues at night markets. I have queued for hours at times, but it was always totally worth it!
I totally agree that street food should stay on the street. I love the experience of grabbing something to eat from a street vendor and sitting in a busy square or park to eat it. Also, I wouldn’t want to pay 10 times as much just because it’s in a Restaurant. Long live street food!
Thanks for your comment Katie! I’m with you on that one!
I looove currywurst and really miss it (haven`t lived in Germany for 10 years, but I have it every time I go back). Have you been to the Currywurst museum in Berlin? It is really fun and you get a free currywurst as well.
Thanks the tip about currywurst museum! I will have to plan a trip to Berlin now!
We feel the same:) Street food should stay on the street, and I also love curry wurst! When I was in Vienna the last time, I ate 3 or 4 times:)
Thanks for your comment Gabor! Totally agree!
While I do love eating street food, I confess that I don’t go for that option unless I am familiar with the place/country or the food that I eat! I am a vegetarian, that leaves me with limited options in terms of street food. Having said that, I’ve always enjoyed variety of street food in India. I can call it my comfort food.
Thanks for your comment Anu. I understand that, being a vegetarian, street food might not be up your alley (especially in Europe, where it tends to be meat-based). You can always go for falafels!
I haven’t tasted currywust, but yes street food should remain in the street. While I do love eating street food, I confess that I don’t go for that option unless I am familiar with the place/country or the food that I eat! I am a vegetarian, that leaves me with limited options in terms of street food. Having said that, I’ve always enjoyed variety of street food in India. I can call it my comfort food.
I feel like the worst person when in Germany because I just don’t like sausages. I love the beer though…I think I made up for my sausage dislike with all the beer I drank 😉
Thanks for your comment Hannah! Totally agree, I am a beer fan too!
I have to say that I really wasn’t a fan of currywurst. I’ve tried it only twice and not from any of the places you mention above, so maybe I need to try it a few more times, at one of the places you mentioned and it will grow on me. I do however agree with you about street food staying on the street. I’ve never found an improved version of a street food in a restaurant.
Thanks for your comment Jen. Sorry you didn’t like currywurst… I guess it’s the sort of thing that can be really nasty if you don’t have it from a good place!
There are foods that are best enjoyed in certain places. For me I won’t eat a hot dog unless it’s at a backyard cookout or a baseball game.
Thanks for your comment Brianna! So true!
Wow I had no idea there were so many types of “wursts!” I definitely need to try the currywurst, I love bratwurst but have never been to Germany so I don’t know what the authentic ones taste like. Street food is generally good, but I agree with you – street food should stay street food. It’s like going to a restaurant and ordering an elephant ear but it just doesn’t taste the same as when you get it at a fair.
Hey Samantha! There are so many types of wurst in Germany, I guess there are many regional specialties.
Sorry for my ignorance, what is ‘elephant ear’? In any case, you’re totally right!
I haven’t run into much street food in restaurants… but have to say that I adore street food on the streets as well. There is nothing better than legit food from a cart, stand or truck! Plus it’s always so reasonably priced! My husband and our friends and I recently went to the first annual Kansas Food Truck Festival and had a blast. Read about it here if you are interested: http://simplyalexandramyfavoritethings.blogspot.com/2014/05/first-annual-kansas-food-truck-festival.html -Alexandra
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Thanks for sharing your post Alexandra! It made me so hungry!
I lived in Germany for more than 6 years ans there’s nothing like going home with a currywurst mit pommes after a long night out. Each time we visit Germany, we also get a currywurst…. I’m getting hungry now 😉
Thanks for your comment Shere! Currywurst after a night out is the best!
I love currywurst! I ate it everyday when I was Berlin. Vancouver recently opened up a currywurst shop and it’s the only place in the city where you can get some (unless you make it yourself). I still haven’t had a chance to go yet, so I’ll have wait and see how good it is.
Hey Adelina! Let me know how it is once you try Vancouver currywurst! A German friend is moving to BC soon, and he’ll be happy to have a slice of home in his new town!
During a recent trip to Berlin currywurst was always going to be on our menu – now I say ‘our’ but what I really mean is Paul’s (my husband) due to the fact that I am a vegetarian. Having spent a very early Sunday morning wandering around the Reichstag we decided to pop into the café across the road for a mid-morning snack and as we wandered in (at just after 10am) we were surrounded by a mass of people eating currywurst, chips and half litre pints so it seemed fitting that Paul also joined in. His conclusion: the curry wasn’t spicy enough, it just didn’t have the kick he was expecting and like yourself was expecting so much more from a ‘street food’ that was now being served up with proper cutlery, trying to be more than it was.
Street food should always remain as it started as a street food that is part of the allure in the first place!!
Hey Tam! Thanks for sharing the story… but even from a place like the one you described, currywurst shouldn’t be too bad! For the experience, at least!
That looks good! We were in Germany last summer but didn’t get to try currywurst. Another good reason to go back. Yes, street food should always stay on the streets. There are some things that are meant to be eaten while walking around.
Thanks for your comment Mary. Another reason to go back to Germany (if you even need one)!
I’ve seen currywurst on the menu in Penang, but didn’t realize it was German. I thought it was some sort of British-Indian influence. The word “wurst” should have clued me in. I’ve never tried it, but after reading this, I think I will. However, it will have to be in a sit-down restaurant as I’ve never seen it at a Penang hawker stall.
Hey Michele! Wonder how Penang currywurst would be… I totally get your perplexity on the British Indian origins, makes sense! Thanks for your comment!
I never knew currywurst existed…looks delicious! Street food eaten in restaurants makes me think commercialization so I vote “should stay in the streets”.
Thanks for your comment Matilda! I’m with you on that one!
Hey! Agree with you on that… what is your favourite street food?
Definitely! And you know I think it’s also something about the experience of eating on the street. You’ve hiked miles around town, you’re sitting on a concrete flower box and watching people… I’m not sure. But it works.
You’re so right Bronwyn! Sometimes it’s hardly pleasant or comfortable, especially if the weather’s not the greatest… but it works!
Did you know that Edelcurry is *not* the poshest of the lot in Hamburg! 🙂 But I like the atmosphere and food at Edelcurry; the place basically calls to me every time I’m in Hamburg. 🙂
Don’t get me wrong Henry, I did like Edelcurry too… but I loved the street better! Thanks again for all your tips!
I haven’t sampled as much wurst as I would like but I definitely think that currywurst would be right up my street! Love spicy versions of food so this sounds really intriguing. Street food is always a great way to sample local cuisine for sure.
It’s delicious Chris, you should!
I’ll be honest and admit that I always thought I would hate curry wurst – kept thinking it sounded like the least appealing thing to me ever and then, when I went to Cologne a couple of years ago, I decided it was time to try local food and gave it a try for cheap and cheerful street stalls, at train stations, road corners etc – and you know, I loved it!!! By the time I left, I’d eaten it at least 3 times – just goes to show how important it is to try 🙂
I have yet to find any food in a restaurant that is better than it’s street version. Maybe it’s because the restaurants have to tame their flavors down to appeal to the restaurants, or perhaps because in the kitchen is just a random chef instead of a passionate individual who has been perfecting their street food chef-ery (yes, that’s a word) for years…..or maybe we will never know one. Either way, one thing we do know for certain is street food wins, ALWAYS.
As a Hamburg Native it’s great to read such a post! I love currywurst as well but haven’t tried it in a restaurant, it seems way too weird! I agree that street food should stay on the street! Do you have other posts about Hamburg? If you’re interested in coming to Hamburg again, I have a few posts about cool restaurants and cafés that you should visit!
Have a great week!